The event was a launch for Mode at Rowan, from British yarn powerhouse Rowan Yarns. Rowan Yarns was started in 1978, with the vision to produce a paintbox array of high-quality and trend-focused knitting yarns in natural fibres, and these values are still at the heart of the company today. The plan for Mode at Rowan was to design capsule collections with an edited lineup of the Rowan colour palette, with a focus on modern, on-trend designs. There were rails of samples to try on, from super soft, lightweight pieces to gorgeous chunky knits and lots of gorgeous yarn to squish.
Georgina and I had been trying to meet up to chat for a long time, and after maybe 18 months of attempts, it was great to meet in real life. The Mode at Rowan plans were big, and I was invited to a follow up event a few months later at Osprey House, the flagship for Rowan Yarns. I highly recommend visiting, if you are in the area - the perfect mix of interior decor pieces and wool, stacked to the ceiling, in the beautiful English countryside.
Designing for Rowan is probably one of the most exciting opportunities for any knitwear designer, and I was (and still am) so very proud to even be asked to attend the meeting. If you’re interested in becoming a knitwear or crochet designer, I’ll give you my top tips in a future blog post to help you on your journey!
I went home, with armfuls of yarn samples and oodles of ideas. Most of my designs start out with either Pinterest boards full of inspiration (you can follow me on Pinterest {here} to get some of my yarny inspo!), or I grab the yarn and some needles and just start trying things out. This was a mixture of the two, and after loads of sketches and swatches, I had my pile of concepts to submit. I was so excited to have two designs selected for the collection. Actually, I am still so excited about this!
Now, I wasn’t alone in this journey - my talented Mode at Rowan Blogger’s Edit friends include Samantha from @pippy_eve, Katharina of @katandleni and Lily Kat from @lilykatemakes, and they all have created absolutely beautiful knits. If you don’t follow them, you absolutely should!
THE COCOON
If you’ve been with me for a while, you will know that I love a chunky knit. (If you’re new here, welcome! My name is Tiam Safari and I love a chunky knit!) Quick to make, easy to wear, super stylish and on trend. It’s no surprise that my first two patterns that I designed and launched under KNIT SAFARI are my most popular downloadable knitting patterns - my number one chunky knit cardigan pattern, The Seed Bomber and The Seed Bubble Sweater, which is my best-selling chunky knit sweater pattern.
With this in mind, I knew that I wanted to design a chunky knit cardigan for this collaboration. It’s in my wheelhouse, but it’s also a slightly different style for Rowan fans, so I was hoping it could attract some new people to the brand. I also knew I wanted something full of drama, and a chunky knit texture paired with giant, billowing sleeves.
My first design for the Mode at Rowan Blogger’s Edit is the Cocoon Cardi, an oversized knit cardigan worked in one giant panel of seed stitch, then folded and seamed. During the work-in-progress phase, it’s almost like making a blanket!
THE HERRINGBONE
My second design for the Blogger’s Edit is something completely different - The “Herringbone” features a herringbone knit stitch that gives a woven effect, with oodles of texture. I’m looking forward to layering this over a crisp white shirt in winter, paired with some pale blue Mom jeans and a chunky hat. I wanted a sweater with a super-duper deep V neckline, slim sleeves, and a dropped back hem.
This sweater is knitted in Rowan Kid Classic, which creates such a soft, fluffy knit, and is so beautiful to knit with. It was definitely a case of the yarn inspiring the design - I tried a few different stitches, and I just fell in love with the stitch definition that this yarn provided. I’d love to do a super cosy beanie and mitten set in this yarn (maybe an idea for this Winter!?)
Want to see more? Click here to check out more of the Mode at Rowan Blogger’s Edit?
I’ve also used this stitch in The Herringbone Knit Clutch, which is a chunky knit handbag in t-shirt yarn, so I thought this would be the perfect time to brush up your skills on this complex looking but simple to knit stitch. The concept is the same, whether you use a fine wool yarn or a chunky jersey yarn, and I recommend yarns with a strong stitch definition for this stitch (so, definitely steer away from beautifully hazy mohair.)
The Herringbone Stitch is worked on both the right side and wrong side of your knitting, and the simplest way to describe it is you work the second stitch first, then the first stitch second. Does that sound strange? It feels a bit awkward to begin with, but I promise that it gets easier and much less awkward after a few rows! Grab your needles and let’s get knitting!
You will need: one colour of yarn and some knitting needles. In this tutorial, I’m using Hoooked Zpagetti in Peach Shades and 15mm knitting needles.
Start by casting on multiples of 2 + 1 stitch..
Step 1: (right side) slip the first stitch. You only do this for the very first stitch of each row, so that you get a neat and tidy edge to your knitting.
Step 2: Working between the stitches, knit the second stitch without slipping the first stitch off the needle.
Step 3: Knit the first stitch, without slipping it off the needle.
Step 4: You now have 2 old stitches on the left needle and 2 new stitches on the right needle.
Step 5: Slip both old stitches off the left needle. You should see a little criss-cross effect in the stitches directly below the right needle. It’s a bit tricky on the first row, but it does get easier and more visible!
Continue working across the row, by repeating steps 3 to 5. You’ve now completed your first row! Phew.
Now it’s time to do the wrong side (or purl) row. It’s essentially the same as the right side (or knit) row, but you’ll be purling the stitches. Turn your work and let me walk you through it:
Step 6: (wrong side) slip the first stitch.
Step 7: Working between the stitches, purl the second stitch without slipping the first stitch off the needle.
Step 8: Purl the first stitch, without slipping the stitches off the needle.
Step 9: You now have 2 old stitches on the left needle and 2 new stitches on the right needle.
Step 10: Slip both old stitches off the left needle. If you sneak a peek to the front of your work, you should see another row of cross-crosses under the right needle.
Repeat steps 7-10 to continue across the row.
Once you get to the end, you’ve repeated the second row and the first repeat of the pattern. Now your first two rows of Herringbone Stitch are now complete! Continue working like this until your work reaches the desired length. It’s quite tough on your fingers, so don’t make your tension too tight, otherwise it will be really difficult to work the pattern. If you find your knitting is really dense, try using a larger knitting needle than the yarn suggests, to keep the fabric nice and supple.
So, what do you think? Will you be trying out any of the Mode at Rowan designs, or incorporating the Herringbone Stitch into any of your future knitting patterns? Let me know in the comments!
]]>You may have seen my free pattern for the knitted Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee (if not, it’s available right here on the blog!) and already know why I love a cotton tee in summer. Easy to make, easy to wear, and laundry is a breeze. Pairing this crochet version with some high-waisted jeans when it’s a fraction above room temperature in London gives you more wear out of your warm-weather clothes too, which is good in my book!
This striped tee is crocheted in flat panels, seamed, and then the neckline is worked in the round at the end for a professional finish. If you prefer to make things as seamlessly as possible, you can make the body seamless to the underarms, then follow the instructions to continue to make the top half of the back and front. You can also make the sleeves seamlessly, and sew them in at the shoulders (or, crochet directly from the shoulder seam to create the sleeve - it’s up to you!) As this is a basic pattern, I’ve only included instructions for the easy version.
This tee would look great in any DK cotton, such as Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, or Knitcraft It’s Only Natural. If you’re not sure, pop your yarn into yarnsub.com and see if it’s a good match!
16sts x 7rows = 10cm x 10cm in Treble Crochet (UK terminology)
This pattern includes instructions for multiple sizes. When the stitch instructions differ between each size, the instructions are given for the smallest size first, then medium, then large, and then the largest size, and is indicated by stitch counts in brackets, eg: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
The Crochet Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee is an oversized fit. You may wish to knit a smaller size for an oversized fit.
The adult model (haha, that would be me...) is a UK size 10-12 and is wearing the Crochet Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee in size medium.
TC Treble Crochet (NB: UK terminology is used throughout this pattern. This corresponds to DC Double Crochet in US terms)
DC Double Crochet (this corresponds to SC Single Crochet in US terms)
BLO back loop only
FLO front loop only
Ch chain
Sl st slip stitch
St/s stitch/stitches
Rep repeat
*...; repeat from the *
Decr decrease - I do this by the double crochet 2 together technique
WS wrong side
RS right side
I wanted to keep this crochet version of the Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee in line with the knit version, so the striping is similar. If I was to make it again, I’d think about making it in a different colour combo, like:
Whatever you decide on your crochet summer top, be sure to take lots of photos and tag me on instagram! I’d love to see!
If you prefer a longer body on your tee, crochet more rows for the body. If you prefer a longer sleeve, just crochet more rows here too. Keep in mind that this will impact your yarn usage, and will also weigh down your tee so it might stretch and grow over time.
Finally, before you get started, please note that I used a turning chain of 1 ch, and worked the first TC into the first st. This is because I personally preferred the way this looked in this yarn and with this size hook. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. If you prefer a different technique, such as ch 3 or a standing treble crochet, please feel free to use that instead!
STEP 1 With 5.5mm crochet hook and pink yarn, ch 80 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140). Starting in 3rd ch from hook, TC 78 (82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122, 130, 138)
Please note, the turning chain does not count as st.
You will now only work into the FLO or BLO of the st, in alternating rows to create the straight line texture. On RS rows, always work into the BLO. On WS rows, always work into the FLO. As the row counts vary for the 9 sizes, you will need to keep track of whether you are working into the FLO or BLO.
STEP 2 Ch 1, turn. TC (into the BLO on RS rows and FLO on WS rows) 78 (82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122, 130, 138).
Rep step 2 for 28 (29, 29, 32, 34, 37, 40, 42, 44) rows in total (or until your panel reaches the length you like), working in alternating stripes of Pink for 5 rows and Cream for 1 row. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of each colour change, just carry it up every other rows (this is so you don’t have loads of ends to weave in at the end, because as you probably know, I think that is not very fun! Remember not to yank too tightly as this will pucker the rows, but also don’t leave a big loop of yarn because you’ll get snagged in it when you take it off!)
Note: if you did make the panel longer or shorter, write down how many extra or fewer rows you worked, just so you don’t forget. After years and years of knitting and crocheting, I can promise you I always *think* I’ll remember, but I never do!
Secure final st, cut yarn.
Rep steps 1-2 as for the back (including making sure to work the correct FLO or BLO row AND the correct colour to match the back!), working step 2 for 25 (25, 25, 28, 30, 32, 35, 36, 38) rows in total.
Note, if you made your back panel longer or shorter, please work more (or fewer) rows now, before beginning the neckline shaping. You will now work across only half of the sts, to shape the right half of the neckline.
STEP 3 Ch 1, turn. TC (into the BLO on RS rows and FLO on WS rows) 33 (35, 38, 41, 45, 48, 52, 55, 58) sts. (34, 36, 39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56, 59 sts)
STEP 4 Ch 1, turn. Work 3 sl st, 1 DC, TC 30 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 51, 54) sts. (31, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 52, 55 sts)
STEP 5 Ch 1, turn. Work TC 27 (29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 43, 46, 49), then 1 DC into next st. (28, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 44, 47, 50 sts)
STEP 6 Ch 1, turn. Work 1 DC, DC dec in next 2 sts, TC 25 (27, 30, 33, 35, 38, 41, 43, 46) sts. (27, 29, 32, 35, 37, 40, 43, 45, 48 sts)
For size XS only:
Secure final st, cut yarn.
For sizes S-5XL only:
STEP 7 Ch 1, turn. Work TC (26, 29, 32, 34, 37, 39, 42, 44) sts, DC dec in next 2 sts, 1 DC in final st. (28, 31, 34, 36, 39, 41, 44, 46 sts)
For sizes S-XL only:
Secure final st, cut yarn.
For sizes 2XL-5XL only:
STEP 8 Ch 1, turn. Work 1 DC, DC dec in next 2 sts, TC 36 (38, 41, 43) sts. (38, 40, 43, 45 sts)
Follow instructions twice to make two sleeves.
STEP 1 With 5.5mm crochet hook and pink yarn, ch 61 (63, 66, 70, 73, 77, 80, 84, 87). Starting in 3rd ch from hook, TC 59 (61, 64, 68, 71, 75, 78, 82, 85) sts.
Please note, the turning chain does not count as a st.
You will now only work into the FLO or BLO of the st, in alternating rows to create the straight line texture. On RS rows, always work into the BLO. On WS rows, always work into the FLO. As the row counts vary for the 9 sizes, you will need to keep track of whether you are working into the FLO or BLO.
Also, to make the cream stripes on the sleeves visually smaller, I decided to use DC instead of TC for these rows. Play around with different stitches - you might like an even skinnier stripe, so you could do a row of sl st. You might prefer the cream stripes to match the body, so do a row of TC. At each colour change, you will need to cut and secure the yarn, or carry it across the row if you prefer. I think this makes the fabric a bit thick and bulky, so don’t tend to do this very often (even though I hate weaving in ends!)
STEP 2 Ch 1, turn. With pink, TC 59 (61, 64, 68, 71, 75, 78, 82, 85) sts.
STEP 3 Join cream, ch 1, turn. DC 59 (61, 64, 68, 71, 75, 78, 82, 85) sts.
Rep step 2, twice. Then, rep step 3, once. This forms your striped block. Work these striped blocks 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) more times.
Rep step 2, a further 2 (0, 1, 0, 2, 0, 2, 2, 0) times. Secure final st, cut yarn.
STEP 1 Sew front and back together at the shoulder. Find the centre point of the sleeve and match to the shoulder seam, then sew in sleeves. Place a st marker to match the front and back together at the following three points: bottom of the hem, underarm, edge of sleeve. Sew front and back together along side seam from sleeve edge to underarm to hem. Secure st.
STEP 2 Using 5.5mm crochet hook and pink, DC evenly around neckline, working 33 (34, 37, 41, 44, 47, 51, 54, 57) sts along front and 25 (26, 30, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41, 43) sts across the back neckline. Working in continuous rnds, DC BLO for 3 rnds. Secure final st, cut yarn.
STEP 3 Weave in all ends. Wear your Eezy-Breezy Crochet Striped Tee, and take a photo and tag me in it on Instagram so I can see too! Then, decide what you’re going to crochet next.
Note: I was kindly gifted the yarn for this project Hobbycraft, however was not required to post about the product and did not receive payment for any content created. Additionally, some of the links in this blog post are affiliate links, and I may make a small commission if you click through and decide to purchase the items. This does not affect the price you pay, and these are items that I have personally tried and loved using, and the small commission allows me to continue creating patterns for you!
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I was on a bit of a crafty kick at this point too - I had just started my maternity leave, wasn’t quite infinity weeks pregnant yet, and I really liked the idea of making a nice bag. I also knitted some baby socks, some neon jumpers, and some hats and booties (the free patterns are available too - the socks are here, and the jumper is here!) before I found out that my kid would hate wearing hats. Oh well.
This bag has been in use for enough time for me to realise that it’s not going to fall apart, so I don’t feel so nervous to share the pattern with you now. Worked seamlessly in the round from the bottom up, with optional nylon lining to stop any minor spills that are bound to happen when you have a baby, are sleep-deprived, and are carrying lots of various liquids around. I included some black leather straps, but you could swap these for some crochet straps instead if you prefer.
STEP 1 Ch 34, 32 DC starting with 2nd ch from hook, 4 DC in end ch, 32 DC up other side, 4 DC in final ch. Sl st to join. You should have a long oval shape.
You will now crochet in continuous rounds. You might like to place a stitch marker in your very first stitch so that you remember where the round starts, or you can wing it and play it fast and loose with your WIP. Not gonna lie, that’s what I would do!
STEP 2 *32 DC, 2 DC in each end st; rep from * one more time
STEP 3 *32 DC, (2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the following st) 4 times; rep from * one more time
STEP 4 *32 DC, (2 DC in the first st, 1 DC in the next 2 sts) 4 times; rep from * one more time
Rep step 4 until you have worked 2 DC in the first st and 1 DC in the next 8 sts
STEP 5 Work one rnd of DC BLO, then 2 rnds of DC
STEP 6 *32 DC, (DC decr in the first st, 1 DC in the next 8 sts) 4 times; rep from * one more time
STEP 7 Work in DC until your work measures 26cm from the BLO rnd of step 5. Secure the final st.
STEP 8 (optional splashproof lining) Sew lining together at short ends, then sew bottom of lining closed at one edge. Fold top edge in and stitch a 2.5cm deep seam casing, leaving a 1cm gap to insert the twisted cord. Hand stitch bottom of lining to bottom of crochet bag. Use whatever settings work best on your sewing machine. You may also like to include some pockets and dividers on the inside of the lining, go wild!
STEP 9 To make a twisted cord, cut 12m of your crochet cotton, fold in half and half again, and loop over a door handle (or ask a friend to hold the end.) If you have cats like I do, you probably want to put them in a different room because this will seem like a fun game to them and make it 100000% more difficult. Tie a knot at the end of the cord and start twisting. Keep twisting until the cord twists onto itself, then fold in half and let it twist up. Tie the knitted end to the looped end that is hooked on the door handle. Tie a knot at the other end, and trim both of the ends into a short tassel.
STEP 10 Cut straps in half and screw onto bag (Optional step - you make also like to do a few stitches to sew the strap to the bag, to stop the screws unscrewing themselves.)
STEP 11 Spill your liquid of choice inside the bag immediately, and marvel at your foresight for making a waterproof lining!
Let me know what you think!
]]>16 sts x 20 rows in stocking stitch
This pattern includes instructions for multiple sizes. When the stitch instructions differ between each size, the instructions are given for the smallest size first, then medium, then large, and then the largest size, and is indicated by stitch counts in brackets, eg: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
The Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee is an oversized fit. You may wish to knit a smaller size for an oversized fit.
The adult model (LOL - me...) is a UK size 10-12 and is wearing the Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee in size medium.
Whatever you decide to do, be sure to take loads of photos and tag me on instagram!
If you prefer a longer body on your tee, knit more rows from the hem to the underarm. If you prefer a longer sleeve, just knit more rows here too. Keep in mind that this will impact your yarn usage, and will also weigh down your tee so it might stretch and grow over time.
For the yarn, it was kindly gifted by the lovely team at Hobbycraft without any conditions attached to it. I used 278g in total, just under 5 balls of Cream and about 1.5 balls of Peach. I’m quite frugal with my yarn, and hate having long tails that get cut off and are wasted, so if you’re a bit more generous you might need more yarn.
For weaving in ends, I was super duper lazy, and just hid them in the seams or tied tiny knots. I find a looser gauge really difficult to hide the woven in ends, and I’d rather not have random patches of double thickness, but that’s my personal preference. You do you!
The tee is started at the hem, working seamlessly from the bottom to the underarm.
STEP 1 Cast on 178 (190, 206, 222, 238, 254, 270, 286, 302) sts, join in the rnd taking care not to twist the cast on edge.
STEP 2 Work in stocking st for 48 (49, 50, 54, 59, 64, 69, 74, 78) rnds, alternating stripes of Cream for 15rnds and Peach for 4rnds. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of each colour change, just carry it up every 2-4ish rows (this is so you don’t have loads of ends to weave in at the end, because I think that is not very fun. Basically whenever I remembered, I’d twist the other colour and carry it up. Remember not to yank too tightly as this will pucker the rows, but also don’t leave a big loop of yarn because you’ll get snagged in it when you take it off!)
You will now work the front and back of the tee separately. Divide the sts exactly in half - half for the front, half for the back. Work the back sts first, leaving the rest of the sts on your circular needle (or you could move them to a stitch holder or scrap yarn, but I don’t!)
BACK:
STEP 3 Continue working in stocking st for 41 (43, 44, 46, 47, 49, 51, 52, 54) rows across only 89 (95, 103, 111, 119, 127, 135, 143, 151) sts, maintaining the stripe pattern. As we are working in odd rows, you will sometimes need to cut the yarn at the end of the row and rejoin it later. Cast off all sts.
FRONT:
STEP 4 Rejoin yarn to work the remaining 89 (95, 103, 111, 119, 127, 135, 143, 151) sts, and work for 25 (27, 28, 30, 31, 33, 35, 36, 38) rows, maintaining the stripe pattern. Again, due to the odd rows, you might need to cut the yarn and rejoin it to continue a stripe.
STEP 5 Next Row: K 40 (43, 46, 49, 52, 56, 59, 63, 66), co 9 (9, 11, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19), k to end
P one row
Cast off 3 sts, K to end
P one row
Cast off 2 sts, K to end
P one row
SSK, K to end
P one row
SSK, K to end
P one row, K one row
P until 2 sts rem, P2tog tbl
K one row, P one row
STEP 6 The instructions now vary for each size:
For sizes XS and S only:
Cast off all sts
For sizes M, L, XL only:
SSK, K to end
P one row
Cast off all sts.
For sizes 2XL and 3XL only:
SSK, K to end
P one row
Rep these rows, 1 more time
Cast off all sts.
For sizes 4XL and 5XL only:
SSK, K to end
P one row
Rep these rows, 2 more times
Cast off all sts.
STEP 7 Rejoin yarn to work the remaining sts. Beginning with the RS, K to end
cast off the first 3 sts then P to end
K one row
Cast off 2 sts, P to end
K one row
P2tog, P to end
K one row
P2tog, P to end
K one row, P one row
K until 2 sts rem, K2tog
P one row, K one row
STEP 8 The instructions now vary for each size:
For sizes XS and S only:
Cast off all sts
For sizes M, L, XL only:
P2tog, P to end
K one row
Cast off all sts.
For sizes 2XL and 3XL only:
P2tog, P to end
K one row
Rep these rows, 1 more time
Cast off all sts.
For sizes 4XL and 5XL only:
P2tog, P to end
K one row
Rep these rows, 2 more times
Cast off all sts.
Follow instructions twice to make two sleeves. You may like to try knitting them two at a time for an even speedier sleeve
STEP 1 Cast on 65 (67, 70, 74, 77, 82, 86, 89, 93) sts, join in the rnd taking care not to twist the cast on edge.
STEP 2 Work for 23 (25, 30, 35, 40, 43, 48, 50, 52) rnds, alternating stripes of Cream for 4 rnds and Peach for 1 rnd. Cast off all sts.
STEP 1 Sew front and back together at the shoulders. Find the centre point of the sleeve and match to the shoulder seam, then sew in sleeves. I matched the jog line of the body (the bit where you changed yarn colours to make the stripes) with the jog line of the sleeve, so it looks tidier.
STEP 2 Using Peach, pick up and knit 26 (27, 39, 32, 34, 36, 39, 41, 43) sts across the back neckline and 22 (24, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) sts across the front. K 3 rnds, then cast off loosely.
STEP 3 Weave in all ends. Wear your Eezy-Breezy Striped Tee and do a little dance, then make a cup of tea and decide what you’re going to knit next...
Note: I was kindly gifted the Knitcraft It’s Only Natural DK yarn by my lovely contact at Hobbycraft, however was not required to post about the product and did not receive payment for any content created. Additionally, some of the links in this blog post are affiliate links, and I may make a small commission if you click through and decide to purchase the items. This does not affect the price you pay, and these are items that I have personally tried and loved using!]]>Good things take time, right? That’s why I keep telling myself at least. While the desire to compare my design process to similarly lengthy things, like fine wine, haute couture, or even making parmesan, I will try to hold back. I promise.
Three, maybe four, years ago, I had a designey-idea: knit a chunky cardigan that would fit under my winter coat, so I wouldn’t have to sacrifice an extreme knit outfit day for warmth in our pretty Arctic London winters. Easy huh? I picked up the needles, grabbed some yarn in my stash, and started knitting. I did not realise at the time that this would turn into the Saga of the Cabled Sleeved Cardi.
On paper, it worked. The sketches, the maths, the everything. In the wool, it. Did. Not. Now, I’ve had my fair share of knitastrophes and crolamities in the past (for example, the first mohair jumper I made when I moved back to the UK 7 years ago and decided to knit was a peach bubble of armour proportions) and I’m a dab hand at frogging, ripping back, or storing WIP failures for another day. But this was different. I felt defeated. Unfortunately for me, I had blasted my excitement about this project all over social media, and other people were also excited. All the encouraging words and messages convinced me to keep trying, or at least not to give up.
Take two: let’s start again. Modify the measurements, fix the raglan lines, try a bigger needle. Nope. Failure again. Try a different yarn? No, that didn’t work. Smaller needles? Nein nein nein. Different colour? Nyet. Failure after failure, in between a steady stream of projects and commissions that were thought of after, and finished well before. Thankfully, I’m in a position to be able to work on multiple projects at once, which I put down to:
But we march on. And on. Finally, the combination worked. I find that when I persevere with an idea, I can figure it out. And by George, I did it! On paper, on the needles, and on my back. I finally had the fitted bomber I wanted, and it was great. Snaking cables up the sleeves, raglan lines that did not pucker, gape or otherwise flap about, and the mixture of trendiness and warmth I needed and wanted.
So now, the unveiling. The Cable Sleeved Cardi, sized from 3M to 5XL. Worked seamlessly from the bottom up (because I still hate seams!) with cabley goodness on the sleeves and raglan shaping to help minimise bulk. Go on, cast on!
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I’m going to be the first to admit that, while I’ve seen all the Star Wars movies with my husband (some at midnight on launch night... zzzzz... and again the next day because maybe I fell asleep a little?), I don’t know the story inside-out and back to front. Now that The Mandalorian has started and we are working our way through the series as quickly as having a 7mth old baby allows, I am even more confused.
But, I was also super duper inspired, and grabbed my hook and some Ricorumi DK cotton yarn, which just happens to have just recently launched in the most perfect shades for this project, and I hooked up 3 little Christmas tree decorations. NON-SPOILER ALERT: I haven’t finished the series so I don’t know if there are any spoilers here, but I can only assume that Baby Yoda does not decorate his pod with a Christmas tree, get tangled in fairy lights, or gives gifts through his powers of levitation. I might be wrong. Let’s see.
Also, I didn’t write this down as I went, and it has not been tested, tech edited or even whizzed through a spell checker. Apologies in advance if there are errors!
Scroll down to find the free crochet patterns for these super cute amigurumi!
Ricorumi DK in these shades:
All instructions written using USA terminology
Not sure exactly, I didn’t do a tension swatch. Sorry. Measuring off the finished pieces is about 22.5sts x 30rows = 10cm x 10cm, in SC using a 3.5mm hook.
Approx 6cm tall, 4.5cm wide.
This was my first idea, and to be honest, my first time in a very very long time of working on such a small scale. I also haven’t put up my Christmas Tree yet, so these guys are all hanging out on my mantlepiece until that happens.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, MC 6
Rnd 1: work 2 SC in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (18 sts)
Rnd 3-4: work SC in each st.
Rnd 5: *SC dec in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (12 sts) Stuff head a bit, but not too much.
Rnd 6: work SC dec around. (6 sts) Stuff head a little more.
Cut yarn and secure final st. Thread tail to sewing needle and sew opening of sphere closed.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, ch 5.
Row 1: SC in second and third ch from hook, HDC in next ch, in final ch work 2 DC, ch 3, sl st to bottom of ch 3, 2 DC (all in one ch sp), rotate ear 180 degrees, work HDC in next ch (directly opposite other HDC), and work SC in final 2 ch.
Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm yarn tail, and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Jedi-shade of beige-brown, ch 20.
Row 1: SC across, starting with second ch from hook. (19 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC BLO across.
Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm yarn tail, and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a silver grey shade, MC 6.
Rnd 1: work 2 SC in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (18 sts)
Rnd 3: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 2 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 3 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (30 sts)
Rnd 5-7: work SC in each st.
You will now work back and forth across the back of the half-sphere to create the top of the pod.
Row 8-10: Ch 1, turn. 15 SC.
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. SC dec, SC BLO until 2 sts rem, SC dec. (13 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. 13 SC.
Row 13-15: rep Row 11, three times. (9 sts)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. SC dec twice, SC, SC dec twice. (5 sts)
Row 17: rep Row 11. (3 sts)
Change to some sparkly silver lurex, and SC evenly around edge of pod. Sl st to join. Turn work, and sl st back to centre of pod. Ch 30, then sl st to top of pod. Cut yarn and secure final sts.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Christmas shade of green, ch 9.
Row 1: SC across starting with second ch from hook. (8 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC dec, SC BLO to end. (7 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. SC dec, SC FLO to end. (6 sts)
Rep Rows 2-3, one more time.
Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm yarn tail, and secure final st. Fold trapezium in half lengthwise and sew into a cone shape.
Thread sparkly gold lurex to sewing needle, and stitch top of tree closed to resemble a Christmas Tree topper.
Thread red yarn to sewing needle, and stitch red baubles, scattered around tree.
Step 1: Sew ears to opposite sides of Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 2: Thread black yarn to sewing needle, and embroider two large eyes onto Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 3: Roll cloak into a loop, and pin to head shape. Sew Baby Yoda’s head to the cloak.
Step 4: Place Baby Yoda and Tree into body, and sew in place. You might like to stuff underneath both shapes lightly, if it helps to bulk out the form.
Weave in all ends. Pop Baby Yoda onto your Christmas Tree and marvel at his cuteness.
This was my second idea - what if Baby Yoda was helping me to put up the Christmas Tree and got tangled in the fairy lights? Cute huh?
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, MC 6
Rnd 1: work 2 SC in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (18 sts)
Rnd 3-4: work SC in each st.
Rnd 5: *SC dec in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (12 sts) Stuff head a bit, but not too much.
Rnd 6: work SC dec around. (6 sts) Stuff head a little more.
Cut yarn and secure final st. Thread tail to sewing needle and sew opening of sphere closed.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, ch 5.
Row 1: SC in second and third ch from hook, HDC in next ch, in final ch work 2 DC, ch 3, sl st to bottom of ch 3, 2 DC (all in one ch sp), rotate ear 180 degrees, work HDC in next ch (directly opposite other HDC), and work SC in final 2 ch.
Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm yarn tail, and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Jedi-shade of beige-brown, ch 16. Sl st to join into a circle.
Rnd 1-2: work SC in each st.
Rnd 3: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 3 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (20 sts)
Rnd 4-5: work SC in each st.
Rnd 6: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 4 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (24 sts)
Rnd 7: work SC in each st.
Cut yarn and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Jedi-shade of beige-brown, ch 9. Sl st to join into a circle.
Rnd 1-4: work SC in each st.
Cut yarn and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and black, ch 75. Cut yarn and secure final st.
Thread red yarn to sewing needle, and sew separate blobs onto ch. Secure each blob individually. I used a bullion st and tied it off under the ch. Rep with gold and green.
Step 1: Sew ears to opposite sides of Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 2: Thread black yarn to sewing needle, and embroider two large eyes onto Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 3: Roll narrow end of cloak over outwards, and pin to head shape. Sew Baby Yoda’s head to the cloak.
Step 4: Sew sleeves to opposite sides of Baby Yoda’s cloak.
Step 5: Thread the Yoda shade of green to your sewing needle, and sew Baby Yoda’s “fingers” to one end of the fairy light so that it looks like he is holding them. Wrap the lights around his body and rep for the other side. I used a long bullion stitch for this because it looks kinda like fingers. Weave in all ends
Step 6: Loop some gold thread into the top of Baby Yoda’s head and tie in a knot, then slide the loop around so the knot is inside the sphere. Hang Baby Yoda on your tree straight away, and see if he can light up the fairy lights using his powers. (Full disclosure: he probably can’t, unless you’ve been swigging a bit of the Christmas booze while crafting...)
This was my final (for now...) idea... Baby Yoda giving you a gift. Ahhh.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, MC 6
Rnd 1: work 2 SC in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (18 sts)
Rnd 3-4: work SC in each st.
Rnd 5: *SC dec in first st, 1 SC in second st; rep from * to end of rnd. (12 sts) Stuff head a bit, but not too much.
Rnd 6: work SC dec around. (6 sts) Stuff head a little more.
Cut yarn and secure final st. Thread tail to sewing needle and sew opening of sphere closed.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a suitably Yoda-ey shade of green, ch 5.
Row 1: SC in second and third ch from hook, HDC in next ch, in final ch work 2 DC, ch 3, sl st to bottom of ch 3, 2 DC (all in one ch sp), rotate ear 180 degrees, work HDC in next ch (directly opposite other HDC), and work SC in final 2 ch.
Cut yarn, leaving a 15cm yarn tail, and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Jedi-shade of beige-brown, ch 16. Sl st to join into a circle.
Rnd 1-2: work SC in each st.
Rnd 3: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 3 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (20 sts)
Rnd 4-5: work SC in each st.
Rnd 6: *work 2 SC in first st, 1 SC in next 4 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. (24 sts)
Rnd 7: work SC in each st.
Cut yarn and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and a Jedi-shade of beige-brown, ch 9. Sl st to join into a circle.
Rnd 1-4: work SC in each st.
Cut yarn and secure final st.
Using 3.5mm crochet hook and red yarn, MC 4.
Rnd 1: work 3 SC in each st. (12 sts)
Rnd 2: work SC BLO around.
Rnd 3-4: work SC in each st.
Rnd 5: SC3 tog, four times. (4 sts)
Cut yarn and secure final st. Sew top of gift closed.
Tie gold yarn around gift and secure with a bow, to resemble ribbon.
Step 1: Sew ears to opposite sides of Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 2: Thread black yarn to sewing needle, and embroider two large eyes onto Baby Yoda’s head.
Step 3: Roll narrow end of cloak over outwards, and pin to head shape. Sew Baby Yoda’s head to the cloak.
Step 4: Sew sleeves to opposite sides of Baby Yoda’s cloak.
Step 5: Thread the Yoda shade of green to your sewing needle, and sew Baby Yoda’s “fingers” to his sleeves. I used a long bullion stitch for this because it looks kinda like fingers. Rep for second hand.
Step 6: Sew gift to Baby Yoda’s tummy, between his hands, so that it looks like it is levitating.Weave in all ends
Step 7: Loop some gold thread into the top of Baby Yoda’s head and tie in a knot, then slide the loop around so the knot is inside the sphere. Hang Baby Yoda on your tree straight away, and make sure he doesn’t tire himself out by using his Jedi powers on making that gift levitate for too long. It’s tiring!
So there it is, my Christmas gift to you. What do you think? Let me know, and make sure to snap some pics and tag me on instagram @knitsafari so I can see your handiwork!
Note: I was kindly gifted the Ricorumi DK yarn by my lovely contact at Hobbycraft, however was not required to post about the product and did not receive payment for any content created. Additionally, some of the links in this blog post are affiliate links, and I may make a small commission if you click through and decide to purchase the items. This does not affect the price you pay, and these are items that I have personally tried and loved using!
]]>Finally... finally the day has come when the idea that I’ve been working on, thinking about, swatching, mathsing, knitting, testing, stopping, photographing, writing, editing and who knows what else for months and months on end has finally been released into the wild.
The Seed Bubble Sweater was my very first design under my own name. Previously, I had freelanced for various yarn companies, either working up their sketches into knit and crochet patterns or submitting ideas for their selection. This sweater gave me the burst of confidence I needed to realise that I could do this, that I DO do this, and that people wanted this. Putting yourself out there is such a scary thing to do, but once it’s done there is no going back!
Initially, this pattern was available in three sizes - small, medium and large. At this point, the big yarn companies or trendy chunky knitters (you know the ones...) were only offering chunky knit kits in one or a handful of sizes Oversized was great, and I kidded myself into thinking that this was all fine and dandy, but the reality is: people do not come in three sizes. Even within sizes there is so much variation in bust sizes, hip sizes, yoke circumferences, and everything else. Around the same time, my own size changed through pregnancy, birth and breastfeeding, and then to add to the mix I wanted to wear matching outfits with my baby (at least until she is old enough to choose her own outfits!)
I spent a long time working on my grading spreadsheet, pulling in measurements from the Crafty Yarn Council, Ysolda’s grading chart, and measuring clothes in shops. I wanted it to work seamlessly, like my knits, so I could plug in numbers, tweak for ease, and go go go. I love a good spreadsheet. It’s kinda my thing, my other thing apart from yarn things. I also wanted to make sure that the fit and shaping worked across the various sizes, so I worked with some amazing knit testers to make sure the pattern works, fits and does what it’s meant to.
All too often, beginner knit designers just add extra stitches and rows for each additional size they offer (or sometimes suggest using bigger needles… eek!) but this is a sure-fire recipe for a knitastrophe. As bodies get bigger or smaller, there are so many other factors to consider, and while I know and agree that even offering set sizes isn’t enough to cater to the infinite combinations of body shapes and measurements, it’s a place to start.
My other patterns will also have a facelift and be sized up from at least an XS to 5XL, and I’ll also be offering crochet patterns for my most popular knit designs. But every journey needs a beginning, and hopefully this is the next step in more, bigger and better things to come.
So now, here it is. The Seed Bubble Sweater, sized from 3M to 5XL. Worked seamlessly in the round from the bottom up (because I still hate seams!) and the right mix of chunky and drapey without feeling like The Michelin Man. Unless that’s your thing. You’ll need:
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I Like Knitting and I Like Crochet are digital magazines that release six times a year, filled with exciting collections of exclusive patterns. Fully tested and tech edited, they release briefs to inspire designers and then work closely with the designer on the process.
It’s not secret that I hate seaming things. Most of my patterns are worked seamlessly in the round, with only some underarm grafting or a shoulder to sew in. Don’t get me wrong, seams are great: they give a garment structure and stability, allow for smaller pieces (so your WIP is much more portable!) and give you knitting milestones to feel like you are actually getting somewhere.
I still don’t like seaming things.
The Poplar Cardi is worked from cuff to centre back in a super chunky seed stitch, and features oversized shaping, a balloon sleeve, and a single seam down the back. This is probably one of the most fun things I have designed this year, and gives you the ability to try it on as you go to get an idea of sleeve length, hem length and neckline depth. Great, I say!
Yarn: Paintbox Yarns Wool Mix Super Chunky in Mustard Yellow (923)
Pattern: Poplar Cardi, available exclusively on I Like Knitting
Socks are a must in London (and for most of the year...) so a good wardrobe of socks is essential. I have day socks, outside socks, home socks, and bed socks. In the vein diagram of socks, these socks lie at the intersection between home socks and bed socks - warm, cosy, and you don’t want to hide them in your shoes.
The Fluffy Lodge Socks are worked with a strand of super soft sock yarn held with a luxe, hazy mohair, from the toe up in a half-twisted rib, with a simple toe and heel. Beginner sockknitters can easily follow the pattern, while pro sockknitters can substitute their favourite heel design and even work the socks two at a time.
Sock Yarn: Coop Knits Socks Yeah! In 105 Danburite
Fluffy Yarn: Rico Design Essentials Super Kid Mohair Loves Silk in 32 Anthracite Melange
Pattern: Fluffy Lodge Socks, available exclusively on I Like Knitting
I have wanted to make some fluffy slippers for a long time, and when the faux fur yarns launched last year I knew it was the perfect opportunity to whip up a pair of cosy house shoes.
The Up North Slippers are worked in a seamless crochet sole and lower, the faux fur insert is worked up, slotted in, and then the upper is attached to the shoe. It could not be simpler! Sized to be roomy, to let your feet be comfy (and give you space for some thick and fluffy house socks!) these are sure to be a winter fave!
Jersey Yarn: Schachenmayr Cotton Jersey in 00010 Sand
Faux Fur Yarn: James C. Brett Chinchilla in CH01 (white I guess?)
Pattern: Up North Slippers, available exclusively on I Like Crochet
Note: I Like Knitting and I Like Crochet paid me for the exclusive rights to these patterns, however I am not obliged or paid if you click through to the patterns on their websites. However, some of the links to yarn in this blog post are affiliate links, and I may make a small commission if you click through and decide to purchase the items. This does not affect the price you pay, and these are items that I have personally tried and loved using!
]]>This tiny little striped baby jumper, inspired by the effortlessly chic Breton knits, is fun to knit for your little one or as a little gift. Fastened at the shoulder with some snap domes, and with enough room to move in and grow into, this is sure to be a firm fave.
I picked neon coral and grey for this sweater because I absolutely love grey, but also wanted a bright splash of colour to perk up the pastel garments that are so readily available. Neons and neutrals are a winning combo, and these match perfectly with my two-tone Neon Newborn Socks.
This sweater knitting pattern is worked in stripes, seamlessly to the underarm, and then the fronts and backs are worked flat separately. The sleeves are worked seamlessly in the round, and then sewed in place.
Colour A: Hobbycraft Hey Baby in Coral (33 grams)
Colour B: Hobbycraft Hey Baby in Grey (44 grams)
4mm circular knitting needles or DPNs
Small snap domes. I bought this set of press-on snap domes from Amazon and it comes in so many colours!
st/sts stitch/stitches
C/O cast on
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 together
rnd/s round/rounds
rep repeat
rem remains/remaining
m1 increase 1 st, using your favourite increase technique
Body
You will begin by working the sweater seamlessly from the hem to the underarms
C/O 108 sts with Colour A and join sts in the rnd, taking care not to twist the C/O edge.
Step 1 Work in 1x1 rib for 5 rnds
Step 2 Work 5 rnds of stocking stitch in Colour B, then work 2 rnds of stocking stitch in Colour A
Rep Step 2, five more times, then work 3 rows of Colour B
Back
You will now work the front and back of the sweater separately, working flat. I always leave the remaining sts on the circular needle cable, but if you prefer you can transfer these to a stitch holder!
Step 1 Working across 54 sts only, work 3 rows of Colour B
Step 2 Work 2 rows of stocking stitch in Colour A, then work 5 rows of stocking stitch in Colour B
Rep Step 2, two more times, then work 1 row of Colour A
Step 3 Cast off 40 sts, then with Colour A work 1x1 rib across rem 14 sts for 3 rows. Cast off.
Front
You will now work the front of the sweater
Step 1 Working across 54 sts only, work 3 rows of Colour B
Step 2 Work 2 rows of stocking stitch in Colour A, then work 5 rows of stocking stitch in Colour B, then work 2 more rows of stocking stitch in Colour A
Step 3 With Colour B, K 23 sts, cast off 8 sts, K 23 sts.
Step 4 With Colour B, P one row
Step 5 With Colour B, cast off 3 sts, K to end
Step 6 With Colour B, P one row
Step 7 With Colour B, cast off 2 sts, K to end
Step 8 With Colour A, P one row
Step 9 With Colour A, K 1, K2tog, K to end
Step 10 With Colour B, P one row
Step 11 With Colour B, K 1, K2tog, K to end
Step 12 With Colour B, P one row
Step 13 With Colour B, K 1, K2tog, K to end
Step 14 With Colour B, P one row
Step 15 With Colour A, K one row
Step 16 With Colour A, P one row
Step 17 With Colour A, work 1x1 rib across rem sts for 3 rows. Cast off.
Rejoin yarn to rem sts
Step 18 With Colour B, K one row
Step 19 With Colour B, cast off 3 sts, P to end
Step 20 With Colour B, K one row
Step 21 With Colour B, cast off 2 sts, P to end
Step 22 With Colour A, K one row
Step 23 With Colour A, P 1, P2tog, P to end
Step 24 With Colour B, K one row
Step 25 With Colour B, P 1, P2tog, P to end
Step 26 With Colour B, K one row
Step 27 With Colour B, P 1, P2tog, P to end
Step 28 With Colour B, K one row
Step 29 With Colour A, P one row
Step 30 With Colour A, K one row. Cast off.
Sleeves
Work steps twice to make two sleeves
C/O 22 sts with Colour A and join sts in the rnd, taking care not to twist the C/O edge.
Step 1 Work in 1x1 rib for 5 rnds
Step 2 Work 1 rnd of stocking stitch in Colour B
Step 3 With Colour B, K 2, *m 1, K 1; rep from * until 2 sts rem, K 2. (40 sts)
Step 4 Work 3 rnds of stocking stitch in Colour B
Step 5 Work 2 rnds of stocking stitch in Colour A, then work 5 rnds of stocking stitch in Colour B
Rep Step 5, five more times, then work 1 rnd of Colour A. Cast off.
Assembly
Sew front and back at left shoulder line.
Place 2 st markers evenly around cast off edge of sleeve. Match one to shoulder line and the other to the line where the side seam would be (if there was a side seam!) and sew sleeve in place.
Place 2 st markers evenly around cast off edge of second sleeve. Overlap rib trim along shoulder line, and match one sleeve stitch marker to this point. Match second marker to the line where the side seam would be (if there was a side seam!) and sew sleeve in place.
With Colour A, pick up and knit 30 sts along back neckline and 34 sts along front neckline. Work in 1x1 rib for 3 rows. Cast off, then weave in all ends.
Hammer two or three plastic snap domes into rib trim at shoulder seam, following manufacturer instructions.
And that’s it!
Note: some of the links in this blog post are affiliate links, and I may make a small commission if you click through and decide to purchase the items. This does not affect the price you pay, and these are items that I have personally tried and loved using!
]]>These newborn socks are the cutest little things, and are perfect for whipping up as a last minute gift or to pass the time when you are waiting to pop. I’ve knitted them up in a solid neon coral, and also as a two-tone grey and coral combo, and to be honest I’m not sure which I love more!
This pattern is worked toe-up in the round, and features simple toe and heel shaping. If you have a favourite toe or heel that you prefer to work, simply work that instead, making sure you have the right number of stitches to continue working.
st/sts stitch/stitches
C/O cast on
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 together
w&t wrap and turn
N1 needle 1
N2 needle 2
rnd/s round/rounds
rep repeat
rem remains/remaining
m1 increase 1 st, using your favourite increase technique
To fit newborn foot, approximate 11 cm (4.25inches) circumference and 9 cm (3.5inches) foot length
Toe You will begin by working the sock from the toe to the heel
C/O 20 sts over 2 needles, using an invisible C/O technique. Arrange your sts so that you have 10 sts on N1 and 10 sts on N2.
Step 1 N1 and N2: K all sts
Step 2 N1: K 1, m1, k until 1 st rem, m1, K1
N2: rep N1 (12 sts each needle, 24 sts in total)
Rep steps 1-2 a further 3 times. (16 sts each needle, 32 sts in total)
Step 3 N1 and N2: K all sts for 18 rnds
Heel You will now turn the heel across N1 only, leaving the sts on N2. You can substitute your favourite heel here if you want!
Step 1 N1: K until 2 sts rem, w&t
Step 2 N1: P until 2 sts rem, w&t
Step 3 N1: K to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t
Step 4 N1: P to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t
Rep steps 3-4, one more time
Step 5 N1: K to wrapped st, K st together with wrap, turn
Step 6 N1: P to wrapped st, P st together with wrap, turn
Rep steps 5-6, two more times
Step 7 N1: K to end of N1, m1 between N1 and N2
N2: K to end of N2, m1 between N2 and N1
Leg You will now work the leg and cuff of the sock, working across both needles again
Step 1 N1: K until 2 sts rem, K2tog
N2: K until 2 sts rem, K2tog
Step 2: N1 and N2: work in stocking stitch for 6 rnds, then 1x1 rib for 20 rnds. Cast off, using a stretchy cast off technique. Weave in all ends.
Sweater Sisters carefully curates yarn from luxury fibre companies, and comissions designers to create a knitting kit “to ensure your knitting experience will bring visual and tactile pleasure from cast on to bind off.”
I dedginess the Bobble Tea Sweater using Arcadia Bulky from Wayfaring Yarns, in four luscious shades - Shoujiji Sakura, a blossom-shade of pink; Rockaway Beach, a sandy neutral; Sanibel Island, a soft dove grey; and Apex, inspired by Living Coral, the Pantone colour of the year 2019.
The pattern is pitched at intermediate knitters, with a semi-seamless design, bobbles and lacework to keep the knitting interesting, and a gently ballooned sleeve for a modern touch.
Want to get the kit? Click here to grab it from Sweater Sisters.
Just interested in the pattern? Head on over to my patterns to buy it!
*this blog post does not contain affiliate links
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Sometimes things take longer than you expect them to, and sometimes life just tells you to STOP EVERYTHING (like… right this second… put down the knitting needles and stop playing with the yarn) and rest for a while. If you’ve been following along with The Great Finger Injury on Instagram, you’ll know that life made me stop knitting, writing, typing or climbing for almost two weeks in October, and it was hard. Very hard.
During this time, I was halfway through a whole pile of projects (including a gorgeous chunky cardigan in a collaboration with Cygnet Yarns – you might remember The Mossy pattern that I made using Mythically Chunky in August), and I couldn’t do anything. I desperately needed to finish it off, and my swollen finger wouldn’t let that happen.
Fast forward to today, and I can finally write, type and knit properly again! Hooray! And even better, this chunky cardigan pattern is also ready! Double Hooray!
This Brioche Bomber is super squishy and fun to knit. The Brioche stitch is quick to learn, and you’ll be zooming through the yarn overs in no time.
Head over to Cygnet Yarns to get the pattern, and let me know your thoughts!
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**Note!! You might need to play around with the number of stitches in your cuff until you get something that stretches over your foot but doesn't sag around your ankle, as the lurex is not very stretchy. If you really can't get the right combo, work your rib with an extra strand of sock or shirring elastic.
Have you tried this pattern? Let me know, and share your pics on Instagram with #knitsafari
]]>Do you want to make your own Pussyhat and learn how to make it look seamless and professionally finished? Well I have the perfect pattern for you!
Materials:
Techniques:
Tension:
6.5 stitches x 11 rows = 10cm/4" square
Measurements: 46cm circumference, 23cm length
Instructions:
I'm also trying something new, called 60 Second Knits - enjoy!
We Are Knitters are trying to “change the world, one stitch at a time” and have a variety of kits for knitters, knotters, crocheters and petit pointers in recycled packaging, from sustainable fibres, with 100% natural beechwood needles. They sent me the Nolita Sweater to try, in Dark Spotted Grey (a new shade!), and I thought that this would be the perfect way to kick-start my New Year’s Knitting Resolution! It is always cold enough to wear a chunky knit in London, and I love nothing more than to snuggle up with a soft and squishy jumper and a hot cup of Peppermint Tea.
The other great thing about my New Year's Knitting Resolution is the satisfaction I get from wearing something I have knitted. The Slow Fashion Movement is working to show the world the true cost of fashion, and to raise awareness about garments produced in a sustainable and ethical way.
The kit comes with everything you need: needles, 5 balls of The Wool, a gorgeous 100% Alpaca (or 6, depending on your size), a sewing needle, pattern and We Are Knitters tag, all packaged in a recycled paper bag. I have two cats, and one is ABSOLUTELY OBSESSED with the smell of yarn, so as soon as I opened the box he jumped right in. He also likes to attack giant balls of wool (gah…!) and jump into paper bags that smell like yarn, so everything woolly is on total lockdown in my house.
First: read the pattern. Read it again. Resist the urge to cast on until you know what is going on with the pattern.
Second: choose your size. I am a UK 10, so went for the medium size. This felt a bit risky, I have broad shoulders and don't want to look like the Michelin Man in my new sweater, and knew I didn't want to frog and start again if it came out too small.
Third: cast on! Now, I'm not a fan of seaming things or weaving in ends, so I converted this pattern to knit it in the round. This is totally unnecessary but is just my personal preference, and it also saves on the extra yarn used up on the selvedge and sewing which is a bonus. I knitted in the round from the hem up to the underarm spot, then knitted the front and back flat. I contemplated grafting the shoulder stitches together for a seamless finish, but decided against it because the should seam will reinforce the sweater and help it to not stretch and sag. This is the perfect time to try on your body and make any adjustments.
Fourth: I went a bit rogue here and did the neckline now. I picked up the neckline stitches in the round and knitted away. Things are getting a bit heavy at this stage and a bit of a shoulder workout.
Fifth: It’s time to work the sleeves! I knitted these two-at-a-time and seamlessly, from the cuff up. I really like making sleeves (or any pairs of things for that matter) that way, because it means you get identical pairs. Feeling a bit stressed one day and relaxed the next? Your tension might change slightly, so you might end up with one tight sleeve and one looser sleeve. Imagine. That's the type of thing that could drive you to frog a project after a few wears… anyway, cast off loosely (so it doesn't shorten the armscye) and then sew it into the body.
Six: weave in those pesky ends. This is probably one of my least favourite things to do, especially with chunky yarn, because it is tricky to hide the ends. I always try to start a new ball of yarn at the end of a row, so I can hide the ends in the seams. For this jumper, I tried a new technique and spliced the ends together. This was one of those “a-ha” moments you have in life where suddenly you're thinking “WHHHY did I not start doing this sooner???”
Seven: Celebrate! Wear your jumper. Snuggle up on the sofa with a cup of tea. Start a new project. I'm notoriously bad at blocking projects, especially big knits. A few shakes and she’s good to go!
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We Are Knitters sent me this super cute heart pillow to try. Like all their kits, this comes with a beautiful ball of The Wool, 15mm Birchwood knitting needles, the pattern and a sewing needle. I am not sure why I expected it to also include the pillow stuffing, but I imagine that they don't want to be shipping huge amounts of non-yarny fluff everywhere, so be warned: you'll need to source your own.
The pattern is easy to follow to knit the heart shapes, although my stitch height/width tension was a wee bit off so my heart lobe were a tiny bit misshapen. I hadn't thought of this when I started the project, so if you don't normally get the gauge bang on to the pattern, you might need to do some tweaking at this stage to make sure your stitches are the same height as they are wide.
Sewing the two halves together is simple too, but personally I didn't like seaming the garter stitch and couldn't get it to sit nicely and invisibly. After a few attempts, I gave up on the sewing needle and grabbed my trusty 8mm crochet hook, and crocheted the two pieces together. This gave it a visible seam, but I'm going to call it a “design feature” and move on. Bonus: you don't have to measure and cut the yarn to do this, so can crochet directly from the ball of yarn.
I left a hole and attacked an old pillow for stuffing. Dacron or toy stuffing is a great stuffing option, and depending on how many snippets of The Wool you have, you could even stuff it with bits of leftover yarn. Is it weird to “feed” something to itself? Is yarn cannibalism a thing? Contemplate this while you stuff the heart.
I finished crocheting around the heart, and secured the end and threaded it into the pillow. This project had ZERO ends to weave in because they're all hidden inside. Hooray!
Depending on your tension and knitting style, you might have a little blob of yarn leftover. My scraps and snips get bundled up by colour and yarn type and saved for future projects. I might use them for a pompom or to decorate another project with duplicate stitch. They would be great to use for weaving projects too. What do you do with your leftovers?
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The Campaign for Wool is now in its seventh year, with the aim to educate people about wool. As a natural and renewable fibre, wool is versatile and has many benefits - it is breathable so keeps you warm and dry in the winter, and helps cool you down in summer.
This year, Hobbycraft asked me to create a hat using the West Yorkshire Spinners 100% Jason DK yarn. After various swatches and tests, I settled on an oversized chunky hat with a deep brim and giant pompom.
Extreme knits and yarns are a huge trend in the fashion and knitwear industry right now, so this pattern uses the yarn held double to get a chunky look with a double-knit yarn.
Head over to the Hobbycraft Blog or download the pattern from Ravelry. And don't forget to tag me in your photos on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter and use the hashtag #knitsafari, so I can see your creations!
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I picked up the sticks again during highschool for a textiles and design class, and it was the first time that I had seen other people knit. My teacher was confused about my knitting and said I was doing it wrong, so I went home and told my mother “they all knit backwards!” This is when I first found out about different knitting styles! My family knit in the Combined Continental style - the yarn is tensioned around the fingers on your left hand, you enter a knit stitch in the back loop, wrapping the yarn over the right-hand needle, and a purl stitch in the front loop, scooping the yarn backwards through the stitch. My mother sat me down and explained that there is no right or wrong way to do any craft, and that you shouldn’t let anyone tell you that doing something differently is bad.
Around this time, our family friends bought a knitwear store in my home town (Dunedin, New Zealand!) and loved a white lacey mohair hat that I had made so much that they asked me to make a few for the store to sell. I was so nervous and had never made anything for other people, but I made two in white and two in black. They sold out in the first week, so I excitedly made some more to sell! I was (un)officially “a fashion designer”.
Fast forward a few (or… many…) years and I picked up the sticks again, this time after moving back to London. My mother had given me a pile of my mohair yarn (from my time as a crochet hat designer) that I had left at her house. I hadn’t started my new job yet, so I somewhat ambitiously cast on a jumper. I had never knitted an entire garment before, but knew the basics of pattern construction from my sewing days during highschool.
I excitedly knitted away, and seamed up the pieces. I never took a photo of the final sweater, but it was immediately taken off and frogged. I still have a sweater’s worth of peach mohair in my wool cupboard…
From there, things improved - I have knitted for designers and high-street collaborations, worked in pattern development, and taught at knit parties. I knit everywhere - at home, on the London Underground, at the bus stop. And now, I am knitting for you!